Light Detector

If Your Question is :
1) How to make a Light Detector circuit?
2)How to build a Light detector circuit ?
3) How to create a Light Detector?
Than  is this...
Here is a VLF receiver tuned to 300 kHz designed to detect the crackle of approaching lightning. A bright lamp flashes in synchrony with the lightning bolts indicating the proximity and intensity of the storm.

Follow The Instruction :

1) Figure 1 shows the simple receiver which consists of a tuned amplifier driving a modified flasher circuit. The flasher is biased to not flash until a burst of RF energy, amplified by the 2N3904, is applied to the base of the 2N4403. The receiver standby current is about 350 micro-amps which is nothing at all to a couple of D cells, hardly denting the shelf life. Of course, the stormier it gets, the shorter the battery life.

2) For best effect, mount the lamp in an old-fashioned holder with an extra-large colored glass lense. Or construct your own fixture with a plate of textured colored glass behind a panel painted with black-crackle paint. Watch a few old science fiction movies for other ideas.

3) A totally different approach is to mount the circuit in an empty glass jar with the antenna and bulb protruding through the top. (A malted-milk jar has a nice, red plastic lid which is easy to work and looks good.) Use a pin jack for the antenna. The gadget looks quite home-made but fascinating.

4) Boat owners may wish to replace the lamp with a 3-volt beeper to provide an early warning of approaching bad weather. Choose one of those unbreakable clear plastic jars like the large jars of coffee creamer. A little silicone rubber will seal the antenna hole in the lid of the jar. Use a longer antenna for increased sensitivity since there are few electrical noise sources on the lake.

5) Tune-up is simple: adjust the potentiometer until the regular flashing just stops. (Use a multi-turn trimmer.) When properly adjusted, the lamp will occasionally flash when large motors or appliances switch on and off and an approaching storm will give quite a show. Obviously, tune-up is a bit more difficult during stormy weather. Adjust the pot with no antenna if lightning is nearby. Tune an AM radio to the bottom of the dial to monitor the pulses that the lightning detector is receiving.
Conclusion:

This lightning detector is not so sensitive that it will flash with every crackle heard on the radio but will only flash when storms are nearby. Increased sensitivity may be achieved by increasing the antenna length. The experienced experimenter may wish to add another gain stage after the first by duplicating the 2N3904 circuitry including capacitor coupling with the addition of a 47 ohm emitter resistor to reduce the gain somewhat. This additional gain can cause stability problems if the layout is poor so novices are advised to use a longer antenna or adjust the sensitivity potentiometer more delicately instead! (When operating properly, the additional gain makes the pot adjustment much less critical.)

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Make a Electromagnetic Field Detector

Instruction:

This circuit is a real gem! Easy to make and more sensitive than many commercial devices available. It's based around an LF351 low-noise operational amplifier and a 1mF choke acting as the sensor. Unlike most other simple EMF detectors, this one has a meter output for accurate reading, but alternatively, you can also roughly estimate the frequency of the field by plugging in headphones. It can detect any field from 50Hz to 100kHz, making it highly versatile and a worthwhile addition to any hobbyist's workbench.


Use For :

Find out how far electromagnetic fields extend in your room, house, office...

Are you a ghost hunter? Then this is the circuit that you've been waiting for! Since it has been observed that appearance of a ghost tends to disturb the EMF, you can now detect any such changes with this little detector.

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Digital Step-Km Counter

This circuit measures the distance covered during a walk. Hardware is located in a small box slipped in pants' pocket and the display is conceived in the following manner: the leftmost display D2 (the most significant digit) shows 0 to 9 Km. and its dot is always on to separate Km. from hm. The rightmost display D1 (the least significant digit) shows hundreds meters and its dot illuminates after every 50 meters of walking. A beeper (excludable), signals each count unit, occurring every two steps.

A normal step was calculated to span around 78 centimeters, thus the LED signaling 50 meters illuminates after 64 steps (or 32 operations of the mercury switch), the display indicates 100 meters after 128 steps and so on. For low battery consumption the display illuminates only on request, pushing on P2. Accidental reset of the counters is avoided because to reset the circuit both pushbuttons must be operated together.
Obviously, this is not a precision meter, but its approximation degree was found good for this kind of device. In any case, the most critical thing to do is the correct placement of the mercury switch inside of the box and the setting of its sloping degree.

Circuit operation:

IC1A & IC1B form a monostable multivibrator providing some degree of freedom from excessive bouncing of the mercury switch. Therefore a clean square pulse enters IC2 that divides by 64. Q2 drives the LED dot-segment of D1 every 32 pulses counted by IC2. Either IC3 & IC4 divide by 10 and drive the displays. P1 resets the counters and P2 enables the displays. IC1C generates an audio frequency square wave that is enabled for a short time at each monostable count. Q1 drives the piezo sounder and SW2 allows to disable the beep.
Notes:

* Experiment with placement and sloping degree of mercury switch inside the box: this is very critical.
* Try to obtain a pulse every two walking steps. Listening to the beeper is extremely useful during setup.
* Trim R6 value to change beeper sound power.
* Push P1 and P2 to reset.
* This circuit is primarily intended for walking purposes. For jogging, further great care must be used with mercury switch placement to avoid undesired counts.
* When the display is disabled current consumption is negligible, therefore SW3 can be omitted.

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Mobile or Telephone Phone Broadcaster

Hack mobile or telephone call by using phone broadcaster.

Here is a simple yet very useful circuit which can be used to eavesdrop on a telephone conversation. The circuit can also be used as a wireless telephone amplifier.

One important feature of this circuit is that the circuit derives its power directly from the active telephone lines, and thus avoids use of any external battery or other power supplies. This not only saves a lot of space but also money. It consumes very low current from telephone lines without disturbing its performance.

The circuit is very tiny and can be built using a single-IC type veroboard that can be easily fitted inside a telephone connection box of 3.75 cm x 5 cm. The circuit consists of two sections, namely, automatic switching section and FM transmitter section. Automatic switching section comprises resistors R1 to R3, preset VR1, transistors T1 and T2, zener D2, and diode D1. Resistor R1, along with preset VR1, works as a voltage divider.



When voltage across the telephone lines is 48V DC, the voltage available at wiper of preset VR1 ranges from 0 to 32V (adjustable). The switching voltage of the circuit depends on zener breakdown voltage (here 24V) and switching voltage of the transistor T1 (0.7V). Thus, if we adjust preset VR1 to get over 24.7 volts, it will cause the zener to breakdown and transistor T1 to conduct. As a result collector of transistor T1 will get pulled towards negative supply, to cut off transistor T2. At this stage, if you lift the handset of the telephone, the line voltage drops to about 11V and transistor T1 is cut off. As a result, transistor T2 gets forward biased through resistor R2, to provide a DC path for transistor T3 used in the following FM transmitter section.



The low-power FM transmitter section comprises oscillator transistor T3, coil L1, and a few other components. Transistor T3 works as a common-emitter RF oscillator, with transistor T2 serving as an electronic ‘on’/‘off’ switch. The audio signal available across the telephone lines automatically modulates oscillator frequency via transistor T2 along with its series biasing resistor R3. The modulated RF signal is fed to the antenna. The telephone conversation can be heard on an FM receiver remotely when it is tuned to FM transmitter frequency.



Lab Note: During testing of the circuit it was observed that the telephone used was giving an engaged tone
when dialed by any subscriber. Addition of resistor R5 and capacitor C6 was found necessary for rectification of the fault.

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Automatic Heat Detector Circuit .

This is a simple heat detector circuit based on NPN,PNP metallic transistor , IC UM3561 . This is easy to build and also a low-cost circuit.

We have added a table to enable readers to obtain all possible sound effects by returning pins 1 and 2 as suggested in the table.

By: SUKANT KUMAR BEHARA

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Make a Clap Switch

There is a clap switch free from false triggering. To turn on or off any appliance, you just make clap twice. The circuit changes its output state only when you make clap twice within the set time period. Here, you’ve to clap within 3 seconds.

The amplified signal provides negative pulse to pin 2 of IC1 and IC2, triggering both the ICs. IC1, commonly used as a timer, is wired here as a monostable multivibrator. Trigging of IC1 causes pin 3 to go high and it remains high for a certain time period depending on the selected values of R7 and C3. This ‘on’ time (T) of IC1 can be calculated using the following relationship:

T=1.1R7.C3
seconds
where R7 is in ohms and C3 in microfar-
ads.

On first clap, output pin 3 of IC1 goes high and remains in this standby position for the preset time. Also, LED1 glows for this period. The output of IC1 provides supply voltage to IC2 at its pins 8 and 4.


Now IC2 is ready to receive the triggering signal. Resistor R10 and capacitor C7 connected to pin 4 of IC2 prevent false triggering when IC1 provides the supply voltage to IC2 at first clap.

On second clap, a negative pulse triggers IC2 and its output pin 3 goes high for a time period depending on R9 and C5. This provides a positive pulse at clock pin 14 of decade counter IC 4017 (IC3). Decade counter IC3 is wired here as a bistable.

Each pulse applied at clock pin 14 changes the output state at pin 2 (Q1) of IC3 because Q2 is connected to reset pin 15. The high output at pin 2 drives transistor T2 and also energises relay RL1. LED2 indicates activation of relay RL1 and on/off status of the appliance. A free-wheeling diode (D1) prevents damage of T2 when relay de-energises.

Circuit designed by: Mohammad Usamn Qureshi .

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A Transistor tester circuit

This is basically a high gain amplifier with feedback that causes the LED to flash at a rate determined by the 10u and 330k resistor. Remove one of the transistors and insert the unknown transistor. When it is NPN with the pins as shown in the photo, the LED will flash. To turn the unit off, remove one of the transistors.

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